Lá me đất, lá me (tamarind) và vui buồn những mùa hè tuổi thơ ở nhà ngoại

Bên mình nếu ở quê mới có, hồi nhỏ lúc hè thường về bà ngoại chơi (Vạn Giã, cái xứ 10000 không thật 🤪đúng ra là biển giã hay giã nát thứ gì, chứ không phải là giả thật), được ăn nhiều trái cây, nhà bà có nguyên vườn dừa (a farm), đi bộ đường thẳng là mất cả gần hai cây số (hơn 1 mile.) Từ 5-13 tuổi bà thường cho đi một mình tới giáp ranh cuối vườn báo cho bà biết có ai ăn trộm dừa. 🥥 🌴 

Nghĩ lại bà thật cho cháu nhiều lòng tin đến vậy “power”, nhỏ xíu mấy anh mấy chú vừa hái dừa vừa bắt cóc tống tiền hay bán đi như nạn trẻ bị bắt cóc bán qua xứ khác làm điếm, thật may thời đó còn quá an bình trong vườn ngoại. Trong vườn các loại trái cây khác như nhãn, mãng cầu, vú sữa, xoài, ô ma, me, khế, mận roi (rose apple), không nhớ còn gì nữa. Ở Dalat thì đi dốc lên đồi có nhiều cây thông 🌲 thôi, thỉnh thoảng có vài loại dâu hoang dã nhưng ăn được (wild blue berries & raspberries), còn ở ngoại thì ăn đến trúng thực (food comma) 🤭😝😋🤤

Mỗi ngày sau khi ăn trưa, đi bộ từ nhà ngoại tới ranh giới hàng xóm cuối vườn, ở đó coi chừng (cái này giống thiền cho một đứa nhỏ) và trở lại khoảng ba tiếng. Sáng thức dậy quét sân (lá của những cây ăn trái) cả nửa tiếng, quét xong thì không còn cọng lá nào dồn lại vì tụi nó bay qua những chỗ khác (nói chung chuyện tu thiền này làm quá tệ hahaha 😝)

Xong việc công quả quét rác lá, sau khi ngoại tụng kinh, ăn sáng với ngoại rồi thì ngoại đưa tiền và đọc một danh sách cho viết xuống những thứ cần mua.

Khi mấy đứa trong xóm qua nhận trái cây trong vườn do ngoại phát thì mình cùng tụi nó (cùng tuổi hàng xóm gần nhà ngoại) đi bộ ít nhất nửa tiếng xuống chợ dưới phố, đi chợ mua thức ăn dùm ngoại (quá giỏi luôn) 

Cứ như vậy đều đặn thời gian nghỉ dưỡng (“retreat” vacation) cho ba tháng. Mấy ngày giỗ thì nhà ngoại không có nhiều cháu hợp mặt ăn uống, mình nhỏ nhất, mấy dì nấu quá nhiều món (“buffets”) ui “chuột sa hũ nếp”, sau mỗi lần giỗ là đều bị trúng thực hết (ở tầng 2 và 3 của 10 tầng tâm thức (10 Dharma Realms) ngạ quỹ và súc sanh, tham ăn ngu muội 😋🤤)

Hồi đó không hiểu và chẳng biết tại sao nhà ngoại vắng như vậy? Sau này lớn mới biết vì nhà ngoại có những đối kỵ, ghen tị nên cậu có con đông nhưng không ngoan với ngoại, mấy dì con lớn không về, cho nên mình “độc cô cầu bại” bên ngoại ba tháng thần tiên. Khi mẹ dắt đi thăm ba ở Tuy Hoà trên đường ra Quy Nhơn (ở tù vc còn gọi đẹp là re-educated camp, không biết bao lâu và chừng nào được về), vòng về là ghé nhà ngoại bỏ đó cho “tu” với ngoại ba tháng, rồi hết hè lại nhờ mấy anh chị họ đưa về. Đến nhà anh chị em trong nhà không nhận ra vì nói giọng biển giống mấy nhỏ hàng xóm và to con hẳn, cao hơn anh chị ở nhà ốm nhom thiếu ăn. 

Đúng là được luyện (train hiking) và tu thiền từ nhỏ, hèn chi bây giờ thích mấy chuyện đó như vậy 🤣

Trở lại chuyện lá me. Lá me đất: Bermuda buttercups, mọc hoang nhiều nơi, rất ngon nấu canh chua. Còn miền Trung và Nam với cây me (tamarind) trong vườn, không nấu canh chua bằng trái mà hái lá tươi vô nấu, cá 🐠 biển tươi cứng chứ không phải cá hấp hay sau khi đông đá đem lên Dalat hay cá khô. Ăn toàn đồ tươi (organic) rồi ngoại thường ăn chay và nhiều rau, cũng như ở Dalat rau là chính, mấy thứ khác phụ vì mắc quá không có đủ tiền nuôi năm đứa (khi mẹ là gần như một mình (single mom), được ngoại giúp, nhưng mẹ là người đàn bà phi thường (super lady), làm ít nhất ba việc để nuôi đám “tua hới”). Vì ăn nhiều rau quả cho nên chỉ hợp với dược thảo và thuốc dân gian (remedies) khi cảm ho, hay có bệnh vặt. Người không bao giờ chịu thuốc Tây hay thuốc chích ngừa (vaccines), uống thuốc là bệnh hơn (nhiều hóa chất và khoáng chất). Cái mạng được cứu sống được là nhờ lễ và dược thảo (bệnh cảm mà rồi qua thương hàn nhưng không được chữa trị đúng thuốc tưởng chết hồi 17 tuổi rồi. May  nhờ nghiệp chưa dứt, Mẹ đã cầu nguyện linh ứng nên có người quen không hẹn mà gặp đã cứu trị đúng lúc sau cả tháng liệt giường và hai ngày mê man không tỉnh). Sau này thì có những lúc cần châm cứu và uống dược thảo (đặc biệt là bị phản ứng phụ của hai mũi thuốc Covid mà thê thảm cả gần hai năm.)

Còn chuyện được ở với ngoại ba tháng mỗi hè vì đi đường không say xe (motion sickness), xuống thì giúp mẹ xách đồ nên luôn luôn được đi và ở lại một mình không sợ không buồn gì cả. 

Vì thấy cảnh nhà ngoại tranh chấp, ghen tị, bè đảng, hơn thua, nên lớn lên đi đâu mà thấy những chỗ như vậy rất sợ và chỉ muốn tránh. 

Nhờ chuyện canh chua lá me đất và lá me (tamarind), nhớ những kỷ niệm vui buồn lúc nhỏ mùa hè ở nhà ngoại dưới quê và những ảnh hưởng cách được nuôi dạy tạo ra một người độc lập thích mạo hiểm và yêu thiên nhiên nhiều đến vậy. Cảm ơn lá me và người bạn trẻ không biết lá me cho nguồn cảm hứng này 😍🙏

Cảm ơn ngoại, Mẹ và tưởng niệm các dì cho tình thương và ăn no đến bệnh, nhớ các anh chị họ hiếm có cơ hội gặp lại và cũng như bây giờ không sống gần và làm những sinh hoạt khác với anh chị em trong nhà. Đúng là như Phật dạy “duyên nghiệp và quyến thuộc”, không thể nghĩ bàn! 

Lily Nguyễn Nam Phương 

2018 HikingOC Recaps & Trips

Weekly Hikes: Turtle Rock, Peters Canyon, Chino Hills, Santiago Oaks, Crystal Cove, etcMonthly Hikes: Whiting Ranch, Laguna Coast Wilderness

Special Occasions: Aliso Summit, Dana Point Cave, Super Blue Blood Moon, Forest Falls

Mountains Training Series: Saddleback Mountains, Baden Powell, Sand Stone Peak, Sierra Peak, Mt Wilson, Icehouse Canyon, Idyllwild, San Bernardino, Big Bear

California Weekend Trips: Santa Cruz, Big Sur, Eastern Sierra

US Trips: Colorado, UT, AZ, Havasu Falls, Alaska

Oversea Trips: NZ, AU, Chengdu (China)

Top Hiking Trails in Orange County

1. The Coast: hill trails with ocean views and breezes
1.1: Laguna Coast Wilderness (Boat Canyon Dartmoor Trailhead)
1.2: Crystal Cove State Park (Pacific Ridge Trailhead)
1.3: Top of the World (Alta Laguna Park to Aliso Wood and Canyons)
1.4: San Juan Capistrano Hills (Roller Coasters Trail)
1.5: Aliso Summit Trail (Seaview  Park to Aliso Beach)

2. The Coast: trails along the cliffs and/or down to the sands and tide pools
2.1: Crystal Cove State Beach
2.2: Corona Del Mar/Little Corona Del Mar (at low tides)
2.3: Crestcent Bay (North/South/Shaw Cove)
2.4: Newport Back Bay
2.5: Thousand Steps Beach
2.6: La Tour (Victoria Beach)

3. The Wilderness/OCParks/Irvine Convervancy Landmarks:
3.1: Whiting Ranch Wilderness Park
3.2: Limestone Canyon Park
3.3: Chino Hills State Park
3.3: Santiago Oaks Wilderness






4. OC Peaks:
4.1: Saddleback Mountains: Santiago and Mojeska Peaks (via the Joplin and Holy Jim trails)
4.2: Los Pinos Peak (via West Horsethief and Trabuco Canyon trails)

5. Santa Ana Mountains and Cleveland National Forest:
5.1: Sierra Peak (via Pipeline and Coal Canyon)
5.2: Blackstar Canyon Falls (seasonal, winter with lots of rains)
5.3: Falls Canyon/Holy Jim Falls (seasonal, winter with lots of rains)

6. Urban Views: quick conditioning trails
6.1: The hills of Turtle Rock in Irvine
6.2: Peters Canyon Regional Park (back entrance, from Peters Canyon Road)

7. Historic Parks and Botanical Gardens:

Whiting Ranch Wilderness, Class of 2018

September 23, 2018



One of favorite trails in Orange County that HikingOC.com offers on a weekend is at Whiting Ranch Wilderness Park.

Most often, it could be a group of 20s, 30s, 40s, or more, but sometimes it could be a small group of five. There are some different levels of speed and endurance in a hike, but when Red Rock Canyon includes in a hike, it is mainly for the new group (beginners, those who don't hike often or haven't been hiking before).

It was a full house at the beginning. After ten minutes into the hike and 30 minutes into the flat trail, the group will be separate out in many subgroups by hiking pace and elevation gain.






Each week, each month and each year, we will meet different hikers, but most often only some or few will be remaining in the memories from photos. Thanks to the camera and the phone, many sweet memories stay with us and at the moments writing down, it will share to many others. Hope that the beauty of nature and the exercise in fresh air, hiking will not only be good for an individual who joins the hike for the benefits of body and mind, it will also be inspiring those who have not known about this activity to come out and experience for themselves.

It was Winter time somewhere else, but for Whiting Ranch in Orange County, it was Summer time on the trail...

It was August, early morning or late afternoon to get away with the warm Summer heat...

The past Saturday was the second year in the row without planning, we got exact the same hike on the same day offering to new hikers. With the excited to hike a new trail and to get one progressing to higher levels of hiking, it gave a different inspiration to those who have been hiking for so long. It is a group energy and a begin of a journey to friendships in an activity.

 For more details and photos, check here https://www.meetup.com/HikingOC/events/254693979/

Not too often, but when you had hiking buddies joined, then it was bonding time after the hike was good food to cool down. We got to get in Boiling Point in Irvine, the busy place anytime of a day. It was good for an early hike and came there at the opening time. 

HikingOC Annual Eastern Sierra Trip: Devil's Postpile National Monument, Thousand Island Lake and a Group Gourmet Dinner

Mammoth Lakes in the Nevada Eastern Sierra, a favorite destination with so many beautiful trails for hikers and outdoor lovers. HikingOC.com has at least a trip per year in this area.

Labor Day Weekend last year-September, 2017 after few attempts from previous years, we finally got a chance to hike and complete the Thousand Island Lake in a good weather and a nice group of hikers.














Starting before sunrise leaving town, the drive is long (about 350 miles/6 hours one way from Irvine), but it is best driving early morning or late evening when no traffic.

Beautiful sky show before sunrise by Burbank hills. There was a fire going on that added more dramatic to the clouds http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-me-ln-brush-fire-verdugo-20170901-story.html#

When the sun was out, we were looking ahead of the high 90 s degrees up to three digits temperatures in Southern California.  

To beat the heat and have a nice cool air in Mammoth Lakes, we visited and got short hikes to a special landmark: Devil's Postpile and Rainbow Falls. 

For more details and photos, check out from the link:  

https://www.meetup.com/HikingOC/photos/28139622/464716002/

The best part of the trip was a group gourmet dinner as a family at the campground (sometimes we would have it at a cabin, a lodge or a house). There were several dishes and HikingOC.com often had it as a "buffet" style that would fit anyone (including vegetarian and vegan). 

 For more details and photos of the trip: https://www.meetup.com/HikingOC/photos/28139577/464297580/

Day Hikes of Grand Canyon South Rim Trails

In our previous article,"Grand Canyon Three Day Trip with HikingOC", we mentioned about the scenic and challenging hiking trails of the South Rim that take us into the inner canyons. The second day of our three day trip is our main hiking day where we will explore the famous trails of Grand Canyon (GC)--South Kaibab and Bright Angel trails. Since our group has different hiking levels, we will gather in four subgroups: beginning, intermediate, intermediate-plus and advance.

You can check here to find out your hiking level: What is the difference between skill levels?

If you are new to the meetup, please make sure that you join the hosting organizers for at least one hike prior to the trip to determine which group level you should belong to. During the trip, we recommend that you stay with the group in which you have been trained to hike with Lyrid Meteor Shower + Hiking Grand Canyon South Rim (All Levels-Camping/Lodging)

Hiking the Grand Canyon is a great experience. However, without proper training and preparation, sad news likes this can happen: Newlywed dies after Grand Canyon fall

We highly recommend that you hike with a group to the inner canyon unless you'd like to take time strolling around the park. Except for the beginning and intermediate groups, we all start together at the South Kaibab trailhead, but each group will have a different returning point. The advance group will hike the loop after descending the South Kaibab trail and starting to hike up the Bright Angel trail from the river at elevation 2480ft (around 10AM to noon time, it is the hottest time of the day in the canyon) while other groups start from the top of this trailhead at elevation 6860ft around 9AM. The intermediate-plus group will meet up with the advance group at the midpoint of the uphill trail and hike up together.

Here are approximate distance, elevation gain/loss, and total hiking time for each group:

1. Advance group: 17-20 miles, has about 4400-5000ft (gain/loss). Duration:  ~ 7-10 hours
2. Intermediate-plus group: 12.6-15.6 miles, has about 4500-5000ft (gain/loss). Duration: ~ 7-10 hours
3. Intermediate group: 6-9.2 miles, has about 2300-3300ft (gain/loss). Duration: ~ 6-8 hours
4. Beginning group: 3-5 miles, has about 1000ft (gain/loss). Duration: ~ 3-5 hours

Prior to the hike, at the campsites, we will discuss and confirm our hiking plan with other members and organizers. We start our hikes immediately after viewing the Meteor Shower in the early morning.

For both the intermediate plus and the advance groups, they must catch the first shuttle bus going to the South Kaibab trailhead at 6AM (leaving the visitor center); this is optional for the beginners and the intermediate groups - meeting time for these two groups is 9AM at the Bright Angel trailhead.
Since the shuttle bus leave on the hour in the early morning, it is critical to start on time. If we miss the shuttle bus, we will be delaying our hike by one hour and the hike up is brutal in the heat of the day. Page 9 of spring guide has a shuttle map for the route from the visitor center to the South Kaibab trailhead: Grand Canyon the Guide Spring 2012

After getting off the shuttle, we will have to walk 0.8 miles to get to the trailhead. A cautious note to those who haven't hiked the South Kaibab trail before, it is very steep down hill.

The South Kaibab trailhead's elevation is 7260ft above sea level (Orange County is at sea level). The trail is on the ridge line and starts with series switchbacks. Prepare yourself for the change of elevation if you have altitude sickness. Also prepare for a desert climate--dry, cold morning and hot during the day. There will not be a water filling station until we get to the campground (adding 1 mile round trip) or after 5 miles up to Indian Garden on the Bright Angel trail. There are no shades on the entire trail. You should pace yourself as this is an "upside down" hike. The route from the trailhead to the river is 6.5 miles down hill with 4800ft elevation loss. The first highlight of the trail is Cedar Ridge at about 1.5 miles mark--a loss of 1150ft from the start of the trail. This is the turning point if you don't plan on hiking the entire trail. The advance group continues on to the next highlight, Skeleton Point (another 1.5 miles and a loss of 900ft); then to the next landmark, Tiffoff (another 1.4 miles and 800ft loss), this is the last segment before getting to the river which is 2.1 miles and another 1500ft drop. Estimate hiking time is about 3-5 hours to complete this route.

Here are details of the trail: the South Kaibab Trail  and the South Kaibab Trail Map

While the advance group continues hiking to the river on the South Kaibab trail, the other groups returning from the trail will take the shuttle bus back to the Bright Angel trailhead and meet the intermediate level group at 9AM.

Bright Angel trailhead is at elevation 6860ft above sea level, a bit lower than the South Kaibab trail. This is the most crowded hiking trail of the South Rim. Views from this trail follow the head of the canyon--the massive cliffs, and a bit shadier trail with natural water sources and there is more plant life and animal life along the trail than on the South Kaibab trail. These features make this trail appealing to those interested in geology and in viewing wildlife. There are water refill options at Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse* (1.6 miles, descent 1131ft); Three-Mile Resthouse** (another 1.5 miles with almost 1000ft loss) and at Indian Garden (adding 1.7 miles and 950ft loss). The beginners and the intermediate groups can pick the turning point at (*), (**) or earlier at your comfortable limit. Round trip for the route to (*) is 3.2 miles steep both down and up hills or (**) is 6.2 miles. Upon coming back, these groups can take the shuttle to Yavapai Point and hike a little bit more to see the Colorado river and Phantom Ranch.

The intermediate-plus group can go on to the Indian Garden and may optionally hike another 1.5 miles to the Plateau Point looking down the Colorado River. It is approximate 3-6 hours to get to Indian Garden for those who are interested in Plateau Point optional hike. If we coordinate our pace well, we will meet up with the advance hikers at Indian Garden rest stop, refill water and complete our hike up hill together (4.8 miles, about 3100ft gain). This is detailed information on the Bright Angel Trail and the Bright Angel Trail Map 

If we have completed our planned hikes for the day before 5 PM, we can ride a shuttle bus to the scenic route, Hermit Road. The sunset view here is both relaxing and breath-taking. We can choose either Hopi Point, the one that attracts the crowds and buses, or the quieter, Mohave Point, to view the sunset and see the dynamic views of the canyon.

Everyone will probably feel tired because it has been a really long day (3AM to 7PM), but we also feel great that we hiked the South Rim trails. After completing all the day's activities, we will have a group dinner, then a (non-group) shower before resting by the campfire. Happy time to all!

Here are couple more maps of the South Rim trails:
1. Grand Canyon South Rim Topo Map
2. Grand Canyon South Rim Trails Map

Grand Canyon Three Day Trip with HikingOC

Photo by Bob Pasadena

The HikingOC Grand Canyon trip features sightseeing and an option hiking with one of our groups or following your own custom itinerary.

1. Sightseeing: drive or take a shuttle on the scenic roads: Desert View Drive and Hermit Road (spring guide page 7)
http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/desert-view.pdf 

2. Meteor shower viewing: peak time on earth day midnight April 21 to dawn April 22. http://stardate.org/nightsky/meteors

http://earthsky.org/astronomy-essentials/earthskys-meteor-shower-guide

3. Hiking Trails: Bright Angel trail, Yavapai Point and South Kaibab trail (spring guide pages 8 and 9) http://www.nps.gov/grca/parknews/upload/2012SRspring-guide1202.pdf

(Tentative schedule is subject to change due to weather condition and unexpected emergency)

 

The first day is a travel day; it is almost 500 miles from Orange, CA to Grand Canyon Village, AZ. Travel time by car is approximately 8 hours. Even though it may be a long drive, it is a great chance to spend time with friends and share your excitement of the upcoming journey together. Upon arriving to the Grand Canyon (GC)

, some of us will check in at the Yavapai lodge and some of us will check in at the Mather group campground. We meet up together at the GC visitor center and drive (or ride a shuttle bus) to Desert View Drive for a scenic drive, and later for viewing the sunset.

Photo by Krai

 

Desert View Drive is a scenic route that covers 25 miles of the Arizona Hwy. 64 along the South Rim of GC. Driving across this stretch of land will take us 800 years back in time. Along the scenic viewpoints, we may learn the different ways people found food, water and shelter back then. We also have a chance to experience the "ever-changing seasons of Grand Canyon" that is accompanied by some breath-taking and inspiring landscapes.
We time ourselves for two hours to finish the scenic route before 6:15PM, and then we will head back to Yavapai Point for sunset. Since Yavapai point is known for its spectacular view of the canyons at sunset and usually is less crowded than other viewpoints, we will try our best to make it there before sunset time, which is at 7:04PM. Otherwise, we will stay at Desert View Point to view sunset.

Dinner and night time activities:

Majority of the HikingOC group members will be camping, so we will gather at the campsites for dinner and campfire before calling it a night no later than 10 PM.

Photo by Bob Pasadena

We usually have a great view of the night sky in dark places, away from the city lights, such as the deserts. April is also a peak time of the Lyrid Meteor Shower, so we are up around 3 AM to witness this spectacular night sky full of stars--many shooting stars. As we are busy looking at the stars, it is likely that we won't realize the upcoming sunrise.

Sunrise time is at 5:45AM, so we may have another "show" of the canyon in the early morning light. This begins the second day for the group, which will be divided up  in smaller groups for different hiking levels and interests: 

• Group 1 does an all day strenuous hike to the river and back for 17 miles round trip.
• Group 2 and 3 do a moderate hike to the inner canyon from 7-14 miles.
• Group 4 takes the short easy hikes at different viewpoints on the rim trail.
• Some of us will like to be on our own, take the shuttle bus and stop by the viewpoints for sightseeing the park.

If you join any of the above hiking groups, we will have detail trails description for each group on another post. You can find it on: http://hikingoc.com/ "Day Hikes of Grand Canyon South Rim Trails". If you are into sightseeing, photography or with family and friends that are not interested in hiking, there are still so much to do on the top of the park. Besides taking pictures at different times of the day, you can stop by Yavapai Geology Museum; attend Geology talk, and Geo-Glimpse to hear the story of how Grand Canyon formed.



Photo by Van Paris

Strolling from point to point around the park is another great thing to do. You can take the shuttle bus to the South Kaibab trailhead and hike a little bit on the rim trail. The trails are listing on page 12 (spring guide), but the other two recommended trailheads are Yavapai Point and Bright Angel trail. From these trailheads with short hikes 1-3 miles combination, you will have a view of the inner canyon, views of the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch.

On the second day, viewing the sunset will be at a viewpoint on Hermit Road, another scenic drive. Hopi Point attracts many visitors, or you can choose a different viewpoint while taking a scenic route on the shuttle bus on the scenic route.



Photo by Dich

Afterwards, we will have another dinner and campfire with the group at the campsites. Tonight is your choice of staying up late. The third day is your optional day. You can wake up late, have breakfast with the group and drive home; you can tour more of the park, or you can get up early and leave. Have a safe drive home!